A Glimpse Inside Retreat Scouting
What goes into the experience, one decision at a time
Before we bring anyone on one of our retreats, we go first. We sleep in the beds, we taste the wine, we test the pacing, and we argue over restaurants.
A few months ago, while Emilio and I were scouting in western Liguria, I woke up in a lovely 5-star hotel, opening my eyes to a view of palm trees and a windswept beach right from my bed. San Remo was more than I expected: steeped in history, Riviera-style grandeur, and faded elegance, a bit rough around the edges. This is where English gentlemen and Russian aristocracy once came to convalesce in style, where the healing sea air met extravagant hotels and opulent casinos. I didn’t expect to be this fascinated by the city, and I found myself sorry to leave so soon.
After a lavish breakfast, we hopped in the car and headed for the hills to visit a few olive oil producers, in a micro-region famous for its olive production. Talking to the real people behind the world-famous olive oil is a precious experience, and being able to compare the different approaches, philosophies and goals was priceless. This is the difference between tasting olive oil and understanding it.
“I don’t know how I can possibly choose between them,” I confessed to Emilio as well wound our way down hillsides back towards the coast. They were such different experiences, though only a couple miles apart. They represented the old and the new generations, different outlooks, similar products but separate philosophies.
“We’ll just have to include them all!” Emilio replied, with his typical enthusiasm. If it was for him, these retreats would last a month, and we would never have to make these difficult choices. I’m usually the one that has to reel him in, reminding him that the trip also has to be well-paced and relaxing. Our guests are like us, curious and adventurous travelers, but no-one wants to be dragged around on an 18-hour tour de force to every olive oil producer in Western Liguria – except maybe Emilio.
We made our way up the coast towards the border with France as dusk descended and a pink sunset exploded over the sea beside us. I was excited about this evening’s restaurant: I had heard excellent reviews, but unsure it would be worth the trip and dubious we could fit it in our retreat itinerary. The second we walked through the door I knew it was a winner. The wood-clad interiors and nautical motifs felt like stepping into an antique ship, but somehow avoided verging on kitsch. What began as a beach facility in the 1960s is now run by the grandson of the original owners, a young chef who trained in Milan’s Michelin-starred kitchens before returning home. The meal was unforgettable, the wine-pairings phenomenal, the service impeccable.
After the first bite, Emilio and I looked at each other.
“We have to bring them here.”
Afterwards, we stayed in a nearby hotel that we concluded was definitely not approved for our retreat (this is why we personally sleep everywhere we’re considering bringing guests), but fell asleep full and happy.
The next day, we decided to meander our way back down the coast toward Genoa, staying off the highway and winding through ancient villages, empty beach towns and breathtaking vistas. Our retreats are built from days like this, at the intersection of intuition, research, serendipity, and a stubborn refusal to settle.
Our fall Western Riviera Retreat is the result of many scouting missions like this.
Just four places remain. If you’ve been considering joining us, now it the time to look more closely. Booking will close soon. Download the brochure with all the details below.
