Discovering Genoa
A love letter to Genoa through the places I return to again and again
Genoa is an enchanting city – bewitching, bewildering, and beautiful. It was here that my wheels touched down in Italy for the first time, where Emilio met me at the airport, tan and beaming, took me by the hand and introduced me to all his friends and family. Where we would stay awake until dawn, jet-lagged and love-struck, first in line as the forno opened, the warm, yeasty scent of just-baked focaccia mingling with the balmy summer morning air.
My first memories of Genoa are inextricably intertwined with the throes of new love and the thrill of discovery. I was so young, 20 to be exact, while Emilio and his friends were what seemed infinitely more mature at 29, so sophisticated with their real jobs and European mannerisms. It was all one big discovery… a new language, people, customs, so much history, and of course, the food. Oh, the food!
While I spent much time in Genoa, where Emilio grew up and always had a home base, I never technically lived there. We settled in Milan for the opportunities and international appeal the metropolis offered. But even so, going to Genoa on the weekends always felt like a kind of homecoming. It existed on a different plane, a separate dimension from the Milan of hustling and bustling and clawing your way to the top. In Genoa, time stood still, awaiting our return patiently and, though unchanged, always offered some new gem to be uncovered.
I did a good part of my discovering in Genoa with my mother-in-law, who trotted up and down the steep, winding alleyways of the twisting, medieval city center like an urban mountain goat. “This is where they make the best focaccia… here is where I buy fish… this bakery has been here since the 1800s…”
We were sizing each other up back then, barely a language in common, trying so hard to like each other through all the barriers. I towered over her petite frame, feeling so gangly and unkempt in comparison—a pale, messy, loud American buffoon next to her compact, foulard-wrapped, wine-sipping, philosopher-quoting, perfect image of Italian propriety. Yet somehow we made it work. I recognized in her a familiar childlike enthusiasm, a wide-eyed wonder at the beautiful (and delicious) things the world has to offer, and a deep desire to share that with the ones we love.
Which brings me to the point of this post: sharing with you some of my most beloved spots in Genoa. Not an exhaustive list by any means, these are some of the places I return to again and again, each visit a small homecoming, each time a reminder of why I fell in love… with Genoa, with Italy, with it all.
Have you been to Genoa? What would you add to this list?
My Genoa List
Confetteria Romanengo – Soziglia
Stepping into Romanengo’s historic Soziglia location feels like peeking inside a time capsule. One of Italy’s oldest confectioners, Romanengo has been crafting candied fruit, chocolate, and rose syrup since 1780, and operating in this location since 1814. It’s an absolute feast for the eyes and the palate. Don’t miss their candied mandarine slices dipped in chocolate
Pasticceria Profumo
A jewel box of a pastry shop opened in 1827, known for its ornate (Wes Anderson-like) interior and exquisite pastries prepared with historical recipes.
https://www.pasticceriaprofumo.com
Gelateria Profumo
Sister to the historic pastry shop, this gelateria consistently ranks among Italy’s best, earning Gambero Rosso’s coveted “Tre Coni” year after year. Don’t miss the pistachio or Genoa’s famous panera flavor.
Fabbrica di Cioccolato Viganotti
Tucked into a quiet alleyway, Viganotti, this historic chocolate workshop has been crafting confections the old-fashioned way since the 1860s, using antique molds, original machinery, and time-honored techniques. Step inside and you’ll find a tiny, wood-paneled shop where the scent of chocolate is thick, and behind the counter, the laboratorio where the magic still happens daily. Try the cremini, dragées, or their signature boeri (cherries in liqueur).
Gastronomia De Micheli
An old-school deli known for Ligurian specialties like cima alla genovese, farinata, and torta pasqualina. Now run by the 5th generation of the De Micheli family, the shop is famous for the quality and care they put into each of their dishes.
Tripperia La Casana
Tucked into the dark alleyways of the medieval quarter, Tripperia La Casana has been serving traditional tripe dishes since at least 1890, when it was run by Annetta Cavagnaro. Even if you’re not a fan of tripe, peek inside at the arched ceilings, white majolica tiles, original marble-topped tables, and fireplace with copper pots for boiling the tripe. Once a favorite stop for dockworkers seeking a hot cup of tripe broth before their shift, it remains one of Genoa’s most storied and soulful food destinations.
Aresu – Antica Polleria
Aresu is a fourth-generation poultry shop that’s been operating in Vico del Ferro since 1910. Stepping inside feels like stepping into a 16th-century still life: wild game, plump chickens, and seasonal specialties artfully displayed against original early-1900s tilework, marble counters, and wrought-iron fixtures. Matteo and Silvia, the current owners, keep the tradition alive with warmth, humor, and great outfits.
Fratelli Armanino Genova
Legendary purveyors of Ligurian pesto ingredients like pine nuts, walnuts, and extra virgin olive oil.
Il Genovese
A beloved trattoria offering authentic Ligurian cuisine, including some of the best pesto in town. Traditional and always satisfying.
Sa Pesta
Rustic and chaotic, Sa Pesta serves up hearty Ligurian comfort food like farinata, minestrone, and savory pies. Be prepared to wait in line, no reservations accepted, but it’s worth every minute!
https://sapesta.it
Antico Forno della Casana
Tucked into a narrow alley, this tiny bakery turns out heavenly focaccia, farinata, and other old-world baked goods. This is one of the spots I took Stanley Tucci when I showed him around Genoa, and it did not disappoint!
Bottega dello Stoccafisso
In operation since 1936, this charming little shop sells traditional salt cod and stockfish preparations, as well as olives, oil, and anchovies. Still run by the same family.
Drogheria Torielli
Open for over 100 years, this evocative spice shop stocks over 250 varieties of spices, teas, coffees, and colonial goods in glass jars with handwritten labels.
Fabbrica di Turaccioli G.M. Luico
A shop dedicated to corks, bottling tools, and wine-related accessories. Even if you’re not in the market for bottling tools, it’s fun to peek in the window. The place is steeped in history, with old machines and memorabilia still on display.
Mercato Orientale
A vibrant, historic indoor market in the heart of Genoa where locals shop for fresh produce, meat, fish, cheese, flowers, and more. The 19th-century structure features a beautiful central atrium and now also hosts a modern food hall offering high-quality street food, wine bars, and traditional Ligurian specialties. This is a perfect stop for grazing, people-watching, and soaking in local flavors.
Via Garibaldi 12
Not just a design store, but a lifestyle experience inside a UNESCO-listed palace. Italian craftsmanship, antiques, and curated modern design meet under frescoed ceilings. Emilio and I had our wedding registry here, many moons ago.
Pescetto
A historic menswear boutique offering classic Italian fashion in a landmark building, operated by the same family for four generations. Known for refined taste and high-quality fabrics.
Giovanni Rivara fu Luigi
Founded in 1802, Rivara is a textile shop famed for its gorgeous fabrics and Genovese “mezzari,” large, printed cotton cloths featuring bright floral motifs and the Tree of Life pattern. These can be used as tablecloths, couch covers, or tapestries.
I agree!
Hi Laurel, thank you for the good article. I will check the places you mentioned here the next time I visit Genoa. I would add also the Mercato Orientale, near Brignole Station that offers a wide selections of food stands and a central food court with different international cuisines.