The Gelato Files

How it's different from ice cream, choosing a great gelateria, and how to order like a local

I admit, for the longest time I thought “gelato” was just the fancy Italian name for ice cream, and that it only tasted better because I was eating it with the fabulous backdrop of an ancient piazza or a cliffside coastal town. I knew there were differences of course, the flavors, the texture, etc, but I never really delved deep into why until I started developing my food tours and wanted to be better informed.

Nothing says Italian summer quite like gelato. Between June and August, it’s not unusual for my kids and I to grab a cone almost every day, religiously at what we call “gelato-o-clock,” around 4:30 pm.

Just a few years ago…

But is all gelato created equal? Isn’t it just a fancy nickname for ice cream? And how can you tell if you’ve found the real deal, or fallen into a tourist trap? Let’s dive in.

Gelato vs. Ice Cream

American-style ice cream has a higher cream content, while gelato contains more milk and less cream. This means that gelato has less butterfat (around 4–8% compared to 14–20% in ice cream), allowing the flavors (hazelnut, coffee, fruit) to really shine.

Ice cream is churned at a high speed, whipping in a lot of air, while gelato is churned more slowly, incorporating less air. Therefore ice cream remains light and fluffy (and holds its shape in an ice cream scoop, for instance) while gelato is denser and creamier.

Gelato is also kept at a slightly higher temperature than ice cream, which delivers a softer texture and more intense taste experience, since colder temperatures can dull flavors.

How to spot a great gelateria

Real, perfect gelato should contain no artificial colorings, flavorings, thickeners or preservatives. A truly artisanal product is made fresh in small batches with high-quality, seasonal ingredients and expert technique. Here are a few tips on how to judge the quality of a gelateria at a glance.

Put a lid on it

If you spot a gelateria with bright, sculptural, towering mounds of gelato piled high behind the glass, skip it. Authentic gelato is dense and creamy, which means it can’t hold those sculpted peaks unless it has been loaded with stabilizers and air.

Instead, seek out metal containers where the gelato sits just below the rim, or even better, where the containers are completely covered with metal lids. This hides the gelato completely from view but that’s actually a good sign. It means the gelato is being stored at the proper (very specific temperature) and is likely to be a superior product.

This alone, however, is not a foolproof sign of quality. Some industrial gelaterie have caught on to the trend and now serve sub-par gelato in metal, lidded containers to create the illusion of being artisanal. I recently interviewed Mariano Fioretti, founder of Artico, one of Milan’s most highly regarded gelaterie, that focuses on small-batch production, top-tier raw ingredients, and traditional gelato techniques. He explained how they invested heavily in high-tech refrigerated displays that maintain precise temperatures, enabling them to present their gelato in gently curved mounds without relying on artificial stabilizers or additives.

The Scoop

Gelato should be served with a spatula-like paddle, not a round ice cream scoop. Again, its dense, creamy texture doesn’t lend itself to a ball shape.

Color Clues

Is the pistachio gelato florescent green? Red flag. In general, you want to look for soft, muted colors, pale yellows, dusty greens, beigey browns. Think about the natural color of the real ingredient and ask yourself if it matches the gelato. If they’re adding artificial coloring, who knows what else they’re putting in there.

Ingredients Matter

By law, Italian gelaterie must post their ingredient list in their shops, and the goods ones wear this as a badge of honor. If you don’t see one posted, or if you have to ask for it, consider it another red flag. A short ingredient list is a good sign: the fewer the ingredients, the better the gelato.

Also, many of the highest quality gelaterie will only use seasonal fruit to ensure peak flavor. My kids are often disappointed that the shops I frequent don’t offer strawberry or peach flavors in February, but they’ll thank me later. Maybe.

Price Check

Depending where you are, a small cone or cup with two flavors in a reputable gelateria should cost around €2.50–€3.50. Prices that are wildly higher or lower aren’t a good sign.

How to order gelato like a local

OK, so you’ve done your research, checked the above list, and found your perfect gelato spot. Now what? Here’s how to order gelato like an Italian:

• Pay first: You’ll usually need to pay at the cash register before ordering your flavors at the gelato counter. Here, you’ll just need to tell them what size, cup or cone, and how many “scoops” you’ll be ordering:
  “Un cono piccolo con due gusti per favore.” (One small cone with two flavors, please).
  In some gelaterie and often in southern Italy, you’ll have the option of getting your gelato in a brioche bun, which is usually a bit more expensive than a cone but you must try at least once in your life.

• Get it to go: You also have the option of buying gelato by the kilo, packed in a styrofoam container to keep cold on the way home. It’s perfect for storing in your freezer and serving after dinner. As a general rule, plan on about 150 grams (a little over 1/3 pound) of gelato per person.

  

  1 kg of gelato to-go. Clockwise from top left: stracciatella, dark chocolate, hazelnut and bacio.

• Choose your flavors: It’s polite to be ready with your flavor choice when it’s your turn at the counter, or let the next person in line pass in front of you if you’re still debating. It’s fine to ask for a sample if you're unsure you’ll love a certain flavor, but just be mindful of the other people waiting.
  Most flavors are self-explanatory when translated, but some need a little extra explanation:

  • Crema or Crema all’uovo is a classic flavor, comparable to our “vanilla” flavor in the fact that is considered the standard, default option. But instead of being vanilla and cream-based, is made with egg yolks, milk, sugar and often a hint of lemon zest and vanilla bean. It has a rich, custardy flavor.

  • Fior di latte (literally “flower of milk”) is lighter and more delicate. Made simply with milk, cream and sugar, it’s the simplest expression of gelato you’ll find.

  • Stracciatella is Italy’s answer to chocolate chip ice cream. The base is fior di latte, into which melted dark chocolate is poured while the gelato is still churning. The chocolate hardens instantly upon contact and transforms into crunchy, irregular chunks. The flavor was invented in 1961 at La Marianna in Bergamo.

  • Bacio (literally “kiss”) is a blend of chocolate and hazelnut, often with chopped hazelnuts or praline, inspired by the famous Perugina chocolates.

  • Gianduia is similar to bacio in that it’s a combination of chocolate and hazelnut, though it’s usually silkier and more chocolatey than bacio.

  • Malaga is a rum flavored custard gelato with raisins.

  • Cassata is inspired by Sicilian cassata cake, usually a mix of ricotta-based cream with candied fruit and chocolate chips.

I hope you enjoyed my little gelato 101 crash course. I want to hear from you! What’s your favorite gelato flavor? Drop me a note below.